Great Buddha Dordenma overlooks Bhutan, the world’s only carbon-negative nation—now under threat from climate change.
“I can’t get this anywhere else,” says Tshering Lhamo, a 29-year-old shopkeeper in Thimphu, gesturing toward the clean Himalayan air outside her thangka shop. She once studied in Kuala Lumpur but returned to Bhutan for the peace—and the purity. Her friend Kezan Jatsho, who has never left the country, adds, “I cherish the peace here,” even as many peers migrate abroad.
But the serenity they speak of is under threat.
Bhutan, a tiny Himalayan kingdom of 745,000 people—roughly the size of Switzerland—is lauded as the world’s first and only carbon-negative country. Forests cover over 72% of the land, and the constitution mandates that at least 60% remain forested forever. Clean air, abundant water, and natural beauty define life here.
This environmental commitment is not new. Since 1972, Bhutan’s national philosophy of Gross National Happiness (GNH) has prioritized well-being over GDP, championing sustainability, cultural preservation, and equitable growth.
“Money can’t buy contentment,” says 33-year-old business graduate Kezan Jatsho, who dreams of opening a coffee shop one day. “I just need enough for food and clothes; too much money would be a burden, stealing my peace of mind.”
Yet Bhutan’s climate security is more fragile than it seems. Its location in the eastern Himalayas makes it especially vulnerable to global warming. Glacial melt is accelerating. Flash floods and landslides are becoming more frequent. Hydropower infrastructure—one of Bhutan’s economic lifelines—is at risk.
“Bhutan remains disproportionately vulnerable to climate change, through no fault of its own,” says Karma Dupchu, director of the National Center for Hydrology and Meteorology. His agency warns that a temperature rise of up to 2.8°C by 2100 could trigger catastrophic glacial lake outburst floods (GLOFs). Bhutan has over 560 glacial lakes, and in the past 70 years, 18 GLOFs have already caused loss of life and damage.
The Cost of Preparedness
Preparing for the future requires money Bhutan doesn’t have. “The costs of adaptation and mitigation are extremely high,” says Finance Minister Lyonpo Lekey Dorji. The country’s National Adaptation Plan is projected to cost nearly USD 14 billion.
Despite limited resources, Bhutan is not standing still. Nearly 50,000 trained volunteers—known as desuups, or “Guardians of Peace”—can be mobilized during natural disasters. Even cabinet ministers and the Prime Minister serve as desuups. “They volunteered in Nepal’s 2015 earthquake,” the finance minister notes proudly.
But for long-term resilience, more investment is needed—in early warning systems, climate-resilient agriculture, and off-grid energy for the 4,000 rural families still lacking electricity. “The farmers lack the resources and capacity to address the challenges of climate change,” says Dupchu.
Between Migration and Mindfulness
Climate change is just one part of the challenge. Bhutan also faces an “existential” demographic crisis driven by a wave of outward migration. Since the COVID-19 pandemic, more than 12,000 people have left for Australia—many young, educated, and fluent in English.
“Today, 10 percent of the population has left,” says the finance minister. “Most are from the working-age group. In total, some 30,000 Bhutanese have migrated in the last two decades.”
To counter this brain drain, Bhutan’s Fifth King, Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, unveiled a bold solution: the Gelephu Mindfulness City (GMC), a futuristic economic zone grounded in Bhutanese values. “We realize that to achieve and continue holding on to GNH, economic development is necessary,” the finance minister said.
“It’s a new Bhutan with different rules from the rest of the country and a new model of robust economic development,” explains Rabsel Dorji, head of communications for the project. “It aims to attract and retain the working-age population by offering well-paid jobs—creating a place where development and wealth coexist with tradition and sacred values.”
The stakes are high. “If GMC succeeds,” Dorji says, “it can show the world that a city can be created without displacing nature or the people who already live there.”
And if it fails? Dorji simply smiles: “Nothing the King does ever fails.”
Culture as a Climate Strategy
As Bhutan modernizes, its culture remains its strongest shield. In Thimphu, traffic lights are replaced by white-gloved officers directing traffic. Traditional dress—kira for women, gho for men—is worn daily. Bright prayer flags ripple in the mountain breeze. Sacred peaks remain unclimbed. “Nature is not something to be conquered, but respected,” says Kinley Dorji, journalist and editor of the Druk Journal.
When Bhutan transitioned to democracy in 2008 after a century of monarchy, it did so by royal decree—not revolution. Literacy now exceeds 90%. Healthcare is free. And despite limited military or economic power, Bhutan’s spiritual and ecological identity remains a source of strength.
“In the absence of military might and economic strength… our unique identity is our strength,” says Dorji. “The average Bhutanese may not be widely traveled, but they know what matters. People were skeptical about democracy, fearing it would bring corruption and violence.”
Hydropower and Hope
Nature doesn’t just sustain Bhutan—it powers its economy. Hydroelectricity—mostly exported to India—generates 14% of GDP and over a quarter of government revenue. In 2021, Bhutan produced nearly 11,000 GWh of power, exporting over 80% of it.
The country plans to harness 20 GW of renewable energy by 2040, including 5 GW from solar. But this, too, needs external investment. “We need huge investments for this to become a reality,” says the finance minister.
To support sustainable tourism post-COVID, Bhutan reopened its borders with a new Sustainable Development Fee—$100 per night for foreign tourists and just ₹1,200 (US$14) for Indian nationals.
Still, sacred sites remain protected. “The mountains are home to deities,” Kinley Dorji says. “They’re not meant to be conquered.”
A Global Story of Local Survival
In Bhutan, climate change is not a distant threat—it’s a daily reality. But it’s also a moral call for global responsibility.
Unlike Greta Thunberg’s loud protests, Bhutanese youth express their concerns through quiet mindfulness. Combined with forward-looking policies, this has embedded climate justice into national identity.
Still, without major international investment, Bhutan’s future may be as fragile as its glacial lakes.
“I am full of desires for things,” Tshering Lhamo admits, “but I also know if I go after them, it will destroy me.”
Bhutan stands at a crossroads—between survival and sacrifice, tradition and transformation. Its model isn’t perfect, but it offers the world something rare: a vision of development that does not cost the Earth.