Rebuild Natural Fibre Markets to Curb Microplastic Waste

The blue trousers are hemp woven into denim, which is a warp-faced textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. The black and white outfit is from hemp as well.

Plastic pollution has emerged as one of the most pressing environmental challenges of our time. Since the mid-20th century, over 8 billion metric tons of plastic have been produced globally (UNEP, 2021). Shockingly, more than 90% of this plastic waste has not been recycled. Instead, it has been incinerated, buried in landfills, or leaked into the environment, where it can persist for hundreds of years, fragmenting into microplastics.

Among the most insidious threats within this overwhelming tide of waste are microplastics: plastic particles smaller than 5 millimeters. These tiny fragments often originate from the breakdown of larger plastic items or are directly released through industrial processes, personal care products, and increasingly, from textiles. Though they represent a smaller portion of total plastic waste by weight, their impact is disproportionately severe and persistent.

Recent scientific findings show that micro- and nanoplastics are now entering human bodies. These particles have been detected in the bloodstream, lungs, feces, testes, and placentas. While the full health implications are still being studied, early concerns suggest these particles may disrupt hormone regulation, immune response, and cellular function.

Each year, an estimated 9 to 14 million metric tons of plastic waste escape into aquatic ecosystems, including rivers, lakes, and oceans (Pew Charitable Trusts & SYSTEMIQ, 2020). Moreover, it is not just oceans or human bodies at risk; microplastics have also been found in terrestrial soils, affecting agricultural productivity and soil health. They hinder the activity of key organisms like earthworms, which are vital for nutrient cycling. At every level—from soil to sea to self—microplastics are infiltrating our ecosystems.

Plastic’s contribution to climate change spans its entire life cycle—from fossil fuel extraction and chemical manufacturing to transportation and disposal.

Amid this crisis, one significant contributor remains relatively overlooked: textiles. These are estimated to account for 14% of global plastics production (Manshoven et al., 2022). Synthetic fibres like polyester, nylon, and acrylic—ubiquitous in fast fashion—shed tiny plastic particles during production, daily use, and washing. These particles escape wastewater treatment systems and flow directly into natural water bodies.

Microplastics from textile washing are estimated to make up 8% of primary microplastics in the oceans, making textiles the fourth-largest source globally. The implications are far-reaching, affecting marine life, food security, and human health.

In 1960, 95% of textile fibres were natural and biodegradable. Today, demand for textiles has skyrocketed by over 650%, while the share of synthetic fibres has grown from 3% to 68% (Carus & Partanen, 2025). Fast fashion’s dependence on cheap, fossil-fuel-based synthetics has turned the textile industry into one of the planet’s most polluting sectors.

Research scientists Michael Carus and Dr. Asta Partanen of the German nova-Institute have called for a significant increase in renewable fibre production.

Bast fibres from flax, hemp, jute, kenaf, and ramie are promising but remain expensive due to complex processing needs. Investments in scalability could help them rival synthetics.

Man-made cellulosic fibres (MMCFs) such as viscose, lyocell, and modal are biodegradable and scalable but rely on virgin wood and chemical-intensive processes, posing threats to forests and ecosystems. Recycled MMCFs make up only 0.5% of the market, but could grow significantly with proper incentives.

Bio-based polymers, or biosynthetics, offer alternatives to fossil-based synthetics, though adoption is still low. Marine biopolymers from seaweed for textiles may provide yet another source of natural fibre.

In the Global South, informal textile economies provide livelihoods for millions and often operate outside formal regulation. Traditional knowledge systems and indigenous fibre cultivation—such as sisal, coir, or abacá—offer scalable, low-impact alternatives.

Governments, industries, and consumers must work together:

Policy Action: Implement Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes. The EU has introduced harmonised EPR rules for textiles, encouraging sustainable product design.

Market Incentives: Public and private investments should prioritize R&D into cotton and bast fibres. Support transitions in the Global South through microgrants and capacity-building.

Regulation: Increase the use of certified MMCFs. Currently, 60–65% are FSC and/or PEFC-certified. Recycled content should be encouraged.

Waste Innovation: Turn post-harvest waste (kenaf, flax, hemp, jute, sorghum) into textile-grade yarn to boost local economies and sustainability.

Corporate Transparency: Disclose environmental impacts via EU CSRD and ISSB frameworks. When market risks are properly assessed, sustainable investments follow.

Consumer Behavior: Choose natural fibres, buy less, and prioritize durability. Consumer pressure has shaped industries before—textiles are no exception.

Community Initiatives: Support local textile production to reduce synthetic use, preserve heritage, and promote circular economies.

Global Policy: The Global Plastics Treaty under negotiation is a chance to prioritize biodegradable natural fibres in plastic pollution strategies.

If bold actions are taken, synthetic fibres in clothing could fall to 50%, down from today’s 67% (Carus & Partanen, 2025). Without this shift, the future may be defined by worsening microplastic contamination, biodiversity loss, and climate breakdown.

But a more resilient, biodiverse future is still possible—if we act now to reclaim natural fibres and move away from plastic-saturated fashion.